Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2) — A Closer Reading
Edition facts
Burton opens not with Zanzibar itself but with a chapter titled 'Preparatory,' signaling that this is a journey framed by anticipation and logistical detail. The narrative then shifts abruptly to arrival, yet the reader is immediately immersed in a dense weave of historical digression: within the first pages of Chapter II, Burton recounts 16th-century Portuguese encounters, quoting Osorio's 'The conquered pays the conquest!' and describing Arab chiefs 'clad in gold, embroidered silks, velvets, and crimson damask.' This layering of present observation with archival voices sets the structural pattern for the volume.
A Stroll as Structural Device
Chapter IV, 'A Stroll through Zanzibar City,' is the volume's most sustained piece of descriptive movement. Burton uses the walk as a frame to organize sensory data—sights, sounds, smells—and to introduce inhabitants, buildings, and markets. The stroll is not merely a tour; it becomes a method for cataloging the city's layout, its racial and occupational zones, and the interplay of Arab, African, and Indian presences. This pedestrian structure recurs implicitly in later chapters, where Burton's ethnographic surveys often begin with a physical location or a journey outward from the city.
Recurring Images of Ruin and Resilience
Throughout the excerpts, Burton returns to physical remnants of past powers: 'pointed arches that still remain upon the Island,' 'ruins of their extensive barracoons, citadels, and churches,' and 'deep and carefully sunk wells, stone enclosures, and coralline temples.' These images of decay are juxtaposed with the living present of Arab and African societies. Burton notes that 'vestiges of European buildings may be traced... many days' journey inland,' suggesting a landscape where history is embedded in the very ground. The ruins serve as evidence for his argument that Zanzibar's civilization, though 'barbarous' in European eyes, was superior to Portuguese colonial ventures.
Movement Between City, Island, and Coast
The volume's title announces a tripartite geography, and Burton's chapters move accordingly: from the city (Chapters II, IV) to the island's geography and climate (Chapter V) to the coast's history (Chapter VII). This spatial progression is not linear but recursive; each section revisits earlier locations with new analytical lenses. For instance, the 'Visit to the Prince Sayyid Majid' (Chapter VI) returns to the city's political center, while 'The Outskirts of the City, and the Clove Plantations' (Chapter IX) extends the stroll outward. The effect is a cumulative portrait built through repeated circuits.
Ethnology as a Series of Encounters
Burton's ethnological chapters (VIII, X, XI) are structured not as abstract surveys but as sequences of encounters and observations. He groups inhabitants by category—'Foreign Residents,' 'Arabs,' 'Wasawahili and the Slave Races'—but within each, he moves from general description to specific anecdotes, often tied to physical settings. The 'Preparations for Departure' (Chapter XII) then reframes the entire volume as a prelude to an inland journey, suggesting that the city, island, and coast are but a threshold. This structure implies that the real journey—into the African interior—lies beyond the volume's scope.
Burton's Zanzibar is a work of accumulation: each chapter adds a layer of detail, historical reference, or ethnographic observation, building a composite image without a single narrative arc. Readers will find that the volume rewards those who follow its digressions—into Portuguese chronicles, meteorological tables, or the genealogy of Arab sultans—as much as its central descriptions. The index and footnotes are essential tools for navigating this dense, encyclopedic account.